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FOR WEEKS LEADING UP TO OUR LATE November trip to southern Iceland, and then each day once there, my
friends and I anxiously checked the region’s
weather forecast. We longed for clear, wintry
skies to accompany a lack of light pollution —
the magical formula for spotting the elusive
aurora borealis.
But a;er four consecutive days with nary
a glimpse of this wispy green light show, our
hope had dwindled. At Jokulsarlon, a glacial
lagoon, an Australian couple ruefully told us
that we had missed a spectacular show by one
measly night. ;e next evening, we drove out-
side Hofn in high spirits, only to discover the
sky aglow in a dim pink instead of green, the
consequence of stormy weather and smog from
the nearby town’s streetlights.
On the eve before our ;ight home, we arrived
at the 51-room Hotel Ranga, crossing our ;ngers
that the patch of bad luck would change with the
hotel’s remote location, which is about an hour
drive outside Reykjavik.
A member of Small Luxury
Hotels of the World, the four-star, eco-friendly boutique property sits on a
desolate swath of land, with no other buildings
or trees for miles. ;ere are only far-;ung and
snowcapped mountains that look almost two-dimensional in their perfection; the tranquil
East Ranga river, a brisk walk from the hotel;
and, closer still, three geothermally heated hot
tubs for guests.
Aware that most visitors will have a bucket
list item to check o;, Hotel Ranga presents a
range of services for potential northern lights
viewing. Outdoor benches are intended for
contemplating the sky, and guests can borrow
thick blankets and one-piece, astro-
naut-like suits to stay warm. ;ere’s
even an optional wake-up call
should the lights materialize, unannounced, in
the dead of night.
But for clear evenings lacking any chance
of the light phenomenon appearing, the
hotel has dreamed up a stunning stargazing
experience (and “sungazing” during Iceland’s
;eeting summer season) for guests through its
The property is located
about an hour drive
from Reykjavik.
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With an isolated location in southern Iceland, Hotel Ranga is an
oasis for stargazing and hunting for the northern lights
by VALERIE CHEN
